Sunday 15 August 2010

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA '20' @ SOMERSET HOUSE...



1. The thing that interests me the most about the fashion house, is the anonymity and mystery that it is associated with, so I was pleased that this was an area that the exhibition touched on quite frequently through out. Famously remaining anonymous as a designer himself (He has never had his picture taken and remains backstage after shows) Martin Margiela decided to follow this incognito approach when it comes to the brand itself and presentation of its collections…

The identity of models on the runway and in photographs for ad campaigns/look books are hidden by veils, hair pieces which are worn over the face or a black band drawn over the eyes...




A clothes tag is usually to a high end fashion house such as MMM an important factor-it certifies authenticity as well as used to promote/advertise. However, carrying on with the concept of hidden identity, Martin Margiela does not 'sign' his clothing and the label you will find sewn into the insides of his garments are blank; just a rectangle of plain white cotton, with no motif/logo and no writing. A true MMM customer/fan/collector will however recognise it is a genuine MMM item by the 4 tacked stitches in each corner of the blank label...


In all of MMM's stores, the furnishings, objects, accessories and garments are covered up/wrapped in white cotton or transparent muslin cloth and staff wear white lab coats... White has become a major characteristic of Maison Martin Margiela.




2. When it comes to design and construction, MMM is well renowned for their incredibly innovative approach to tailoring. For example, turning the garment inside out from its conventional look, and revealing the construction (such as darts, seams...) that fashion generally attempts to hide (and as discussed earlier, likes to hide things that fashion traditionally likes to show off)





Flat garments:


3. For the last 20 years Maison Martin Margiela have created 'Tabi Boots' in countless variations and in different materials (inspired by the traditional Japanese Tabi - socks which are split for the big toe) and have now become one of their most iconic items.