Meet Masha Ma...

Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2008, womenswear designer, Masha Ma, has had her graduate collection snapped up by Saville Row’s B Store and grabbed the attention of press world wide, having had her work featured in leading style publications such as Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Popand French Playboy.

It seems success likes to follow Masha around as this season she will be showing her

latest collection on Sunday 19th September at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue during London Fashion Week!

Tell me a bit about your latest collection - What has been your inspiration behind it?

A building I came across in the Meat Packing District in NYC initially inspired me. It had all the walls painted white creating this subtle futuristic look. It turned an old industrial building into something quite modern. The collection was strongly influenced by this industrial chic feeling; strong elements such as silver and steel juxtaposed with the intricate elegance found in the draping and finish.

Did that influence the colour palette at all?

Totally: There is a lot of white, ice blue, silver and metallic… It’s all very pastel but sharp at the same time.

For people who aren’t so familiar with your work, how would you describe your signature style?

The label is all about the cut and finishing of a garment: Tailored with a modern arrogance.

You have once stated you have an ever changing silhouette in mind- is this still something you thought about when designing this collection?

I did… the last collection had this glam, cinematic feeling but this season I have moved it forward into a different kind of look. The length has gone very short in comparison to the calf length skirts I had last season. I love to experiment with proportions.

Where would you like to see your brand in the future?

London is a great place to be; there is such amazing support for young, up and coming designers, so I would love to stay here and am hoping to see the Masha Ma label stocked in a lot of London boutiques.

We have also been invited to Paris this season to present our collection at the Louvre during Paris Fashion Week, so I am excited to see how we do there.

You have had quite a lot of success and press attention in China already, is the Chinese Market somewhere you aim for?

The press in China has been amazing. I think I just happen to be Chinese, and they are being very supportive over there. It is definitely a place that we would love to keep appealing to.

Interview for The Fashion Scout

Super Short Hair Makes A Comeback...

Emma Watson's new pixie haircut is reminiscent of Mia Farrow's...

Agyness sporting the shaved head similar to that of Erin O' Connor in the 80s...

Backstage @ VFS Preview Shoot...

The other day I went along to help out at The VFS Preview shoot for their SS '11 designer showcase: Here are a few sneaky back stage pics...

11 Boundary: The East London Boutique

11 Boundary is a high-end fashion boutique offering an eclectic mix of women’s clothing, shoes and accessories by top UK and international designer brands. The store was launched earlier this year by Debra Winstanley, who after years of experience in the fashion retail industry realised there was a gap in the market for specialist boutiques; a gap which she was only too happy to fill.

“I feel that the high street is getting quite boring; everyone offers the same and so there’s such saturation,” explains Debra. “I feel that niche boutiques with a personal choice and a personal service is key. I’ve realised that not everyone wants mass produced garments, instead they want individual items and a good customer service.”

But at 11 Boundary there is a deeper purpose to their first-rate service other than just to generate sales; it’s about building relationships with customers and providing them with genuine assistance: “We can spend two hours in here with just one customer. We get a lot of customers that need help and advice… In here they get that!”

Pieces by Twenty8Twelve, American Vintage, Costume Nationale, L.A.M.B andMalene Birger are just a small selection of what’s offered at the East-end store. Many of these are well-established and popular labels, and some are even the creation of famous faces including Sienna Miller and Gwen Stefani. But what about new emerging designers? “You need your established brands,” reveals Winstanley. “It’s good to have a mix of pieces by new and emerging designers, but although you want to support them, it can be difficult and risky sometimes with new designers as you don’t always know if they are going to deliver or if their production is going to be right.”

Debra gave me an insight into what she looks for in a brand when buying: “The most important thing is to provide the customer with value for money. What we at 11 Boundary put a lot of energy into is finding brands that give good quality, as well as nicely designed garments.” A favourite of hers currently are Danish Brands includingMalene Birger, DAY and a new arrival for 11 Boundary this season, Ganni: “They are absolutely amazing…the value of them all is just so good.”

Located in the trendy Shoreditch area of East London at number 11 Boundary Street (hence the name), Debra’s shop sits amongst a hub of style and luxury, with both the newly opened menswear concept store, Hostem and high end fashion boutique,Start, just minutes away from 11 Boundary’s doors.

The interior of the store is just as chic as the spot it is situated in, with plush white fittings and a pair of glamorous beaded chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. Debra searches through the racks and shows me some of her favourite items for Autumn 2010: “This one has already been very popular,” she says whilst holding up a grey knitted poncho by DAY. “We also had a beautiful Twenty8Twelve suede and leather mix jacket which has already sold out!”

11 Boundary now has an online presence in the form of an accompanying fashion blog, releasing news of latest stock and trends, and with an e-commerce addition to their website, www.11boundary.com, arriving in mid September.

Written for The Fashion Scout

Meet Kirsty Ward...

Yesterday I met friend and designer, Kirsty Ward, to discuss 'all things fashion' over a pot of tea...

For People who are unfamiliar with what you do, describe your Signature style?

I like simple vests, basic shapes and staple wardrobe garments: Deep down there’s the minimalist in me but I create statement jewellery which adds something extra.

What has been the inspiration behind your latest collection?

My inspiration comes from an eclectic mix of 1980’s ‘Bad taste’, tinsel, lametta and the work of Feliks Topolski… The use of textural fabrics, tinsel and towelling was inspired by Topolski’s rough sketchy line drawings, whilst the colour palette stems from 80’s ‘Bad Taste interiors’ so there’s a lot of peach, mint green and pastels.

Describe you favourite piece from the collection?

My work is constantly evolving and so my preferences are constantly changing too, but at the moment it’s this dress that’s made out of wax cotton, which has got lots of different layers, heavy tinsel-inspired embellishment at the bottom and boning inserted into it in places, creating something quite sculptural.

On completion of your MA you went to Italy to work for Alberta Ferretti for over a year, what sparked your decision to leave and start up your own label?

Italy was great… I learnt a lot working for Ferretti and it was very interesting to see how it worked on the big scale. I decided to leave because I got enough out of it and came back to England to start up on my own label. I didn’t necessarily want to start up on my own straight away, so collaborating with David [Longshaw] at first was great. From doing the jewellery for David at London Fashion Week last season I got a really good response so thought ‘I can do this’…

What made you decide to create jewellery as well as clothing?

I am trained in fashion design not jewellery design, so the jewellery making was initially more of a hobby. I just started experimenting with different shapes, textures, materials and unusual bits and pieces I would come across in hardware shops. I now have created a sort of ‘signature style’ to my jewellery by taking something quite ordinary and mundane, and using it in an unconventional way, which I think injects a bit of humour into my pieces.

Does the style of your womenswear line influence that of your jewellery ranges or are they mutually exclusive?

I think they work well as separate pieces but when I design for each season I always have a concept in mind, which is applied to both. For my S/S ‘11 womenswear collection, I’ve actually applied an element of my jewellery to the garments by embroidering the fabric with metal and beads.

How would you describe your working process?

At the start I always have a plan in my head but then certain things turn out differently. Mistakes can happen, which can sometimes change the shape or design for the better… My work is constantly evolving.

Were you interested in fashion when growing up?

I’ve always been into fashion, but I guess it was when I started studying it that I created more of an interest and developed different tastes. I think the first thing that really got me into design was when I realised that I didn’t really like anything that was on offer in the shops and I never had the accessibility into high fashion and designer clothes so I just started making my own.

Where would you love too see your garments and accessories stocked?

Well my jewellery range will be stocked with Young British Designers when it launches later this month, and so I would love to continue with that and possibly have my women’s wear line stocked with them too. And I suppose other stores that support new emerging designers such as Browns, Liberty, Dover Street Market, and 10 Corso Como in Milan (I absolutely fell in love with that shop when I was doing my BA) would also be amazing.

You have collaborated in the past with womenswear designer, David Longshaw, are there any other designers you would love to collaborate with?

Yes definitely, I love to collaborate with all sorts of creative people. But in a dream world it would be Helmut Lang!

Who would you love to dress?

I would love to see a real girl on the street wearing one of my garments; some one who actually likes it and went out and bought it. But I also have a bit of a thing for Anna de la Russo; she’s amazing!

Have you got any big plans for the Kirsty Ward label in the near future?

For now my aim is just to keep on developing it. This season will be my debut Womenswear collection since my MA, so I am just really excited to show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout and to see how it goes!

(Interview for The Fashion Scout)

Meet Una Burke...

Fashion and Art do not have to be placed into two separate categories as Una Burke has proved. As a graduate from the Fashion Artefact MA at London College of Fashion, Una creates what she describes as ‘wearable pieces of art’ - creations that are suitable for both the body and an exhibition stand, as demonstrated at the Vauxhall fashion scout exhibition space, during London Fashion Week last season. I met up with Una, earlier this week to find out what she’s been up to since and what she has in-store for us this season...

As I enter Una’s studio in south London, I am greeted with the beautiful strong smell of leather that’s being emitted from various armour-like pieces dotted around the room. My eyes are drawn to one sculptural piece in particular; ‘Everybody seems to loves that one’ Una says whilst catching my gaze. ‘The leather has darkened now though and it’s a bit worn.’ This is not surprising, as this delicate bodice and many others from the A.W 2010 collection, RE.TREAT, have been requested for wear by celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Fergie, as well as numerous stylists and photographers, (most recently David Bailey and David Sims) to shoot for fashion magazines world wide. On her desk, Una has stacked copies of the magazines in question, which titles include Vogue Italia and Numero, whilst on her walls she hangs posters from exhibitions and events she has presented at: Una is extremely proud of her accomplishments as a designer but in a rather modest and humble way. When asked ‘what has been your greatest achievement so far?’ Una can’t name just one. “There are so many to be honest; I’ve been incredibly lucky. There are so many designers who are extremely talented and would give their left arm for any one of the opportunities I’ve had” “…but being involved in ITS 8 was really amazing” “…And to have Lady Gaga wanting to wear my work - I mean she has the choice of everyone in the world only to come and ask me!” And the list goes on: she tells me about when several of her pieces were taken to the Namibian desert to be shot for a fashion film called ‘Sand People’, how she was named by Vogue Italia amongst the ‘140 new emerging design talent’... And, if there’s one thing for certain, it’s that Una is talented…

Your A.W 2010/11 collection was very conceptual, driven by your research into human trauma- what has been your inspiration behind this latest collection?

Well it’s still coming from that point, as I’m using the same construction that I devised through doing that research, but I’m making some more useable pieces so people who have admired my work in the past can actually purchase a piece of it that they can really wear. I seem to just have this style that always comes out when I come to play around.

Where would you love too see these new pieces stocked?

Browns Focus as that’s where a lot of emerging designers’ work is sold, and I think that’s where a lot of people go to when they’re looking for interesting and new pieces. There’s also a Store in San Francisco called Circle & Square, who have been asking for some bags from me for about a year now.

How would you describe your working process?

Well how I design is with experimentation: I take a piece of leather, twist it, turn it and attach it different ways together and then I’ll apply that to different areas of the body.

Why did you choose leather crafting as your specialism?

I’m not quite sure; it just seems to be something that I’m drawn to. I think it’s because I have such a respect for the heritage of leather working and I think It's bad when traditional crafts are dismissed. The idea of creating something with your hands is such an amazing gift and its so satisfying... I find it sad that people don’t appreciate it as much anymore.

You have previously done some work at Philip Treacy: That must have been inspiring…

The reason I wanted to work with Philip in particular is because his work is very sculptural and quite bizarre - I mean who would have thought about putting a boat on their head? His pieces are fashion but very much art as well. I think that’s what I appreciated about working with him: He is very inspiring and for me what I found incredible was the idea of doing art pieces that you wear.

Who would you love to dress?

Madonna of course! Also, Bjork and Tilda Swinton, they’re all such strong characters.

…and actually Daphne Guinness wore one of my pieces recently for the new NARS cosmetics ad campaign and she is someone incredible whom I’ve always wanted to wear my work.

You have in the past described your work as ‘wearable pieces of art’ - do you consider your self then as an artist or a fashion designer?

A bit of both. I’ve always had this kind of internal argument of where I want to be. Whilst at college my mind eventually set on fashion but then every time I was doing a fashion project there was always an art element to it, which was very conceptual. At this stage it’s funny because I’ve seem to have come full circle and I’m back at that internal argument with my self as I’m not sure which way I’m going again. I think what I would really love to do is keep pushing fashion but then every couple of years create something very artistic, designed for exhibition.

Una’s latest collection will be exhibited with Vauxhall Fashion Scout in both London and Paris for the SS11 Showcase.

Interview for The Fashion Scout

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA '20' @ SOMERSET HOUSE...

1. The thing that interests me the most about the fashion house, is the anonymity and mystery that it is associated with, so I was pleased that this was an area that the exhibition touched on quite frequently through out. Famously remaining anonymous as a designer himself (He has never had his picture taken and remains backstage after shows) Martin Margiela decided to follow this incognito approach when it comes to the brand itself and presentation of its collections…

The identity of models on the runway and in photographs for ad campaigns/look books are hidden by veils, hair pieces which are worn over the face or a black band drawn over the eyes...

A clothes tag is usually to a high end fashion house such as MMM an important factor-it certifies authenticity as well as used to promote/advertise. However, carrying on with the concept of hidden identity, Martin Margiela does not 'sign' his clothing and the label you will find sewn into the insides of his garments are blank; just a rectangle of plain white cotton, with no motif/logo and no writing. A true MMM customer/fan/collector will however recognise it is a genuine MMM item by the 4 tacked stitches in each corner of the blank label...

In all of MMM's stores, the furnishings, objects, accessories and garments are covered up/wrapped in white cotton or transparent muslin cloth and staff wear white lab coats... White has become a major characteristic of Maison Martin Margiela.

2. When it comes to design and construction, MMM is well renowned for their incredibly innovative approach to tailoring. For example, turning the garment inside out from its conventional look, and revealing the construction (such as darts, seams...) that fashion generally attempts to hide (and as discussed earlier, likes to hide things that fashion traditionally likes to show off)

Flat garments:

3. For the last 20 years Maison Martin Margiela have created 'Tabi Boots' in countless variations and in different materials (inspired by the traditional Japanese Tabi - socks which are split for the big toe) and have now become one of their most iconic items.

B.O.F In Conversation with Natalie Massenet...

If you are reading this you are most likely a follower of 'all things fashion' and so most likely tuned into Business of Fashion last Thursday night along with myself and thousands others world wide, to watch the widely acclaimed live interview between BoF Editor-in-chief, Imran Amed, and Natalie Massenet, the founder of innovative fashion e-tailer, Net-a-Porter.

The conversation between the two took place up on the top floor of London’s Westfield shopping centre in Net-a-Porter’s vast new office space. Amongst the spectators present, were Style.com’s Sarah Mower and fashion designers Gareth Pugh and Jonathan Saunders, along with various other industry figures, journalists and guests all of whom took copious notes through out the evening.

It has been an eventful year for Net-a-Porter; As well as marking its 10^th anniversary, 2010 also brought with it a look to the future when the business was bought by prestigious luxury goods group,Richemont, for a staggering £350 million. However, Massenet reassured Amed and viewers that the recent acquisition has not changed the company at all and her agreement with the new owners was that “Net-a-porter has to remain independent… so we are going to be left alone to our own devices and hopefully to Prosper.”

So how did Net-a-Porter get to where it is today? The simple answer is that an intuitive Natalie, back in 2000, set up a shopping business on the web, not only because it was something new and fresh but also because it was what the consumer required… Bringing the store to the customer, instead of the other way around, was key at the beginning of the new millennium and is even more so today: “Women are working, they are making their own money” says Natalie, “by moving the store to the desk, we were able to create the future of shopping.” Always one step ahead, Ms. Massenet realised that in today’s technology-savvy world, even a web based shop isn’t enough, stating that now “the consumer is in the back of a cab, with her iPhone or her Blackberry, on her iPad...” which of course brought the conversation to Net-a-Porter’s most recent news; a collaborative project with Apple Inc to create the Net-a-Porter iPad application, which was debuted during the interview.

The iPad app provides customers with the same ease and convenience of shopping that the website has but is presented in a more visually engaging way, with page layouts that literally look like those belonging to a high-end style publication: “This is really what we always hoped Net-a-Porter would be, because the dream was always to make a shopping magazine,” says Natalie. “With the iPad you can actually merge the magazine experience with shopping.” Massenet has obviously put her knowledge and experience from working as a journalist and editor at magazines including Tatler and WWD into good use. In fact, she states that she still sees her role within the company as an editor: “Editing is the most important thing.” She continues, “A successful retailer thinks like an editor.”

Net-a-Porter has another exciting year ahead of them as January 2011 sees the launch of the site’s equivalent for men’s luxury fashion, Mr Porter. BoF editor, Imran Amed, asked the question that has been on everyone’s mind since the new project was announced in June; ‘‘why did you choose to create a separate men’s site with a separate brand?’ of which Natalie answered “We’ve done a lot of research and we’ve got a great team behind Mr Porter, many of whom are men, who are sharing insights into how they shop and its entirely different [to women]. The service is going to be different, the brand is going to be different, the packaging is different, the voice, the tone is going to be different…” she then revealed “Why? Because we’re thinking about the customer.”

Written for The Fashion Scout