Tim Soar SS '11 Review...

Flared legs, elongated oblique lapels and synthetic fabric choices reflect a look representative of seventies style culture at Tim Soar SS ’11. The use of the industrial material tyvec, (dubbed ‘the wonder material of the seventies’) and shiny polyurethane created a crisp paper effect to white shirts and trouser/top combos. Another key textile was denim, both recycled and new, which when featured on padded patchwork waistcoats added a casual appearance to smart suits.

As part of his SS ’11 collection, Tim Soar presents his ongoing SHE:HIM project, for which he introduces key elements from his high tailored menswear line into womenswear; smart straight-leg trousers and sleeveless suit jackets worn as dresses, all clinched at the waist with a simple denim wrap belt.

Written for The Fashion Scout

Romina Karamanea SS '11 Review...

Earlier today, Vogue.com posted a sneak peak of Romina Karamanea’s SS ‘11 collection, whetting our appetites for tonight’s show... And with an impressive display of feminine, floor-length gowns and men’s luxury silk shorts, Romina certainly did not disappoint.

A soft, almost haunting piano adaptation of the Pixies ‘Where is my mind’ played as the models gracefully descended down the runway dressed head to toe in Romina’s elegantly comfortable and incredibly wearable creations.

Three strong shades of blue, white and red were explored in a series of prints, reflecting pebble-washed effects and linear patterns inspired by natural phenomena and geology, whilst layers of sheer netted fabrics were incorporated into sleeveless suit jackets and tailored shift dresses, creating a multi tonal appearance and engaging aesthetic. ‘Wet-look’ was another key feature at Romina Karamanea this season: Cut out racer-back swim suits and tight fitting men’s boxer briefs were just two of the outfits that incorporated the shiny smooth fabric.

Written for The Fashion Scout

Elliott J. Frieze SS '11 Review...

As a designer who stays true to his British heritage, it is no surprise that Elliott J. Frieze was inspired by ‘all things British’ for his SS 11 Collection…

Traditional tailored trenches in shades of powder blue and camel beige were included in both his mens and womenswear lines. Features of the classic coat such as double-breasted fronts and strong, triangular-shaped lapels were transpired into men’s all-in-ones and women’s soft cotton dresses styled with tanned leather riding boots provided by Pampeano.

“Another inspiration behind the collection is childhood.” Elliott told me a couple of weeks prior to the show. “I have now got two young nieces and so am constantly surrounded by children’s books, especially those written by Roald Dahl and illustrated by Quentin Blake” Influenced by Blake’s quirky drawings, Elliott created his own, depicting images of British polo and cricket players, which had been embroidered onto men’s suit jackets.

As the lights dimmed and the up beat electronic music shifted to the soft sounds of ‘when I Fall In Love,’ Anna Popplewell, muse, friend and fan of Elliott’s, appeared in front of the crowd, trading her usual front-row spot for the runway. Spectators jaws dropped as Anna closed the show dressed in a full-length strapless gown, complete with a sweetheart neckline; a show piece which no doubt will be seen on many a red carpet next season.

Written for The Fashion Scout

Lako Bukia SS '11 Review...

“The collection echoes the architectural buildings from my home country, Georgia.” Lako Bukia told me backstage shortly after her debut London Fashion Week show had ended. “I miss it so much when I am here in the UK and so I wanted to bring a taste of Georgia to London.” Combining sharp, structured, tailored shapes such as accentuated shoulders on jackets and tops with gentle draping in light flowing silks, Lako has created a perfect summer collection: “One of my aims was to make people over here in the UK to realise that although my country has had problems and have been faced with war, it is actually extremely beautiful, and so I wanted to make the collection’s colours and shapes as beautiful as possible.” A strong palette of deep reds and soft blue and pink hues were splashed onto tapered peg-leg trousers, full-length swooping skirts and pale sheer silk tops.

In our brief conversation earlier today, Lako expressed her thoughts on her London Fashion Week debut: “I am really happy with the reception the show received today,” she said. “I was surprisingly calm before and after, but I think that’s because the whole team at Vauxhall Fashion Scout is so supportive - they genuinely care about their designers.”

So what’s next for the Lako Bukia label? “I will also be presenting my SS 11 collection with Vauxhall Fashion Scout in the Paris show room this season, which I am really excited about! I also hope to show with Vauxhall Fashion Scout again for the AW 11 showcase.” So readers watch this space… this is certainly not the last you will hear of Lako Bukia!

Written for The Fashion Scout

Eudon Choi SS '11 Review...

If you could only use one word to describe what was on display at this season’s Merit Award runway show, it would be ‘pockets.’ Placed on lightweight cotton coats and panelled mid-calf skirts, pockets became more than just a functional practicality but a design feature. Entitled ‘Industrial Revolution’, Eudon Choi’s spring/summer 11 collection takes inspiration from a 1920s warehouse coat, sparking a theme of utility and uniform clothing: Workman belts were wrapped around silk and jersey shift dresses whilst the traditional apron had been reworked by Choi and incorporated into sheer, silk-georgette blouses and panelled pinafores.

Neutral hues of camel, grey, dusky blue and faded pink were used for the majority of the collection, with a dash of green and black brush stroke digi-print featured on a few garments.

As his 3rd season, I was pleased to see Eudon’s latest creations had not lost his signature androgynous style, providing a masculine take on the female silhouette.

Written for The Fashion Scout

A-Hallucination SS '11 Review...

Combining a sleek, smart, tailored cut with a youthful, contemporary aesthetic is what Korean design-duo, A.Hallucination, does best. Their first stand-alone show took place last night, presenting their ‘Paper Planes’ collection, as one of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones To Watch for SS 11. With a mix of interchangeable garments including linen shorts, panelled shirts and mac trenches in shades of brown, navy, green and cream, the collection reflected a theme inspired by the designers’ childhood memories, as well as the beauty and freedom of a gliding paper plane. For their London Fashion Week debut, the pair collaborated with accessory designer, Jarah Stoop, introducing the A.Hallucination philosophy to a display of stylish messenger bags and cool-casual rucksacks.

Written for The Fashion Scout

Georgia Hardinge SS '11 Review...

An explosion of digi print, delicate fabric manipulation and structural boned shapes formed La Belle at la Bete, the SS ‘11 collection from Vauxhall Fashion Scout debutant, Georgia Hardinge. Taking inspiration from the works of Jean Cocteau, the French poet, novelist and director of the original ‘Beauty and the Beast’ motion picture, Georgia mixes ideas of French romanticism and early punk, creating the perfect paradox.

The palette consisted of deep purples, forest greens and lemon yellows as well as neutral tones against harsh black. Light flowing silks and sheer mesh fabrics were used to create straight leg trousers and full-length Grecian style gowns, which were left trailing behind the models’ feet. With these delicate fabrics plaited, ruffled and interwoven down the sides of sleeves, placed onto shoe straps and even incorporated into the model's hair, it's Georgia's precise attention to detail that makes this collection exceptional.

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Bunmi Koko SS '11 Review...

After an opening reception of champagne and pastries (obviously all drink was gone long before the food: this is fashion after all!) we took our seats, ready for the show to begin. Following an encounter with what resembled a dancing African warrior hidden within a giant pom-pom, we knew that what Bunmi Koko was about to present us with for the rest of the show was certainly going to be of an exciting nature.

Bunmi Koko (meaning 'God gave me my other half') used her homeland, Nigeria, as inspiration for her SS 11 Collection entitled ‘Matriarchy.’ Combining sleek, sharp silhouettes with traditional African techniques including fringing and tie dye print, models descended down the runway holding tribal canes whilst their faces were hidden behind theatrical feather masks. A strong colour palette of deep reds, browns and golds as well as staple black and whites, also reflected Bunmi’s native.

Written for The Fashion Scout

Kirsty Ward SS '11 Sneak Peak...

So a couple weeks ago I was kept busy helping Kirsty Ward plan/set up/style a photo shoot for her SS '11 look-book and campaign... The shoot took place the other day and I've just seen the final edits- I must say they look pretty cool and capture the stunning aesthetic of Kirsty's collection brilliantly!

Meet Elliott J. Frieze...

British label, Elliott J Frieze, creates beautifully tailored womenswear and menswear which primarily focuses on being… well, British! Although this is not Elliott’s first time showing at London Fashion Week, it is with Vauxhall Fashion Scout and we couldn’t be more excited. I caught up with Elliott last week to find out more about the man behind the name…

You had success last season at London Fashion Week, are you excited about showing with Vauxhall Fashion Scout this season?

Yes absolutely, I think initiatives such as Vauxhall Fashion Scout create great opportunities for new designers to showcase on such a great platform during London Fashion Week, which generate more scope.

For people who are unfamiliar with the Elliott J Frieze brand, how would you describe your signature style?

Elliott J Frieze is a very British brand. I grew up in the British countryside where we kept a lot of horses, so a lot of my work has references to polo, show jumping and other traditional British sports such as cricket and the Oxford and Cambridge boat races.

You have previous experience working with a couple of other designers… tell me a bit about that?

Well I have been in the industry now for about 10 years in one way or another: I started off as a model, and did campaigns for designers such as Paul smith and Michiko Koshino. I then actually started working for Michiko and stayed there for about two and half years, before co founding Qasimi.

You left Qasimi to set up your own label a couple years ago now; what sparked your decision to go at it alone?

To be honest it’s always been in the back of my mind. As a person, I don’t like to have to compromise and so prefer to be in complete control, especially when it comes to designing as I want things to be exactly how I envision them to be: The only way to have that is to have your own company!

Did working as a model help you to get a grasp of the fashion industry?

Well I think by having 10 years working within the fashion industry in all different sectors provides me with a deeper understanding as a whole. I think it’s really important as a designer and as a creative director of a brand, that you understand all aspects of the industry, from model castings to production. Some fashion students think that design is all about illustration, drawing a nice picture of a nice outfit, but it’s really important to understand how that outfit is made and how much it will cost to make that drawing a reality. I now take on a lot of students as interns, some based in London and some in Wales, to help them understand how a fashion business works: Experience is so incredibly important.

What has been your inspiration behind your SS 11 Collection?

My initial idea was to design a wardrobe for Anna Popplewell, the actress. Anna has been a loyal supporter of mine as well as a long time friend. We met together while I was working with Koshino, at the ‘Memoirs of a Geisha’ premier and have remained friends ever since. I told her a couple of months ago that she was an inspiration behind my SS ‘11 collection and asked her to close my show, which she agreed to!

Another inspiration behind the collection is childhood: I have now got two young nieces and so am constantly surrounded by children’s books, especially those written by Roald Dahl and illustrated by Quentin Blake. One of the books in particular called ‘Boy: Tales of a Childhood’ fascinated me as has a chapter in it called ‘Mrs Pratchett’s Sweetshop’ which inspired a bold confectionary colour palette. For this latest collection I’ve also created my own Quentin Blake style illustrations, which I have then embroidered onto the fabrics.

You design both womenswear and menswear: Do the collections link each season or do you like to keep them as separate ranges?

When I am designing I always have an idea of a certain guy and girl in mind so my designs specifically suit them, but then I use the same fabric for both my menswear and womenswear collections, as what I select is never solely for one or the other. The concepts behind each link together too. This season I’ve featured the classic trench which transpires into both men’s and women’s, whether it be a short trench-dress or a classic men’s trench coat.

You have had Amber Le Bon and Jacquetta wheeler model for you already, what other style icons would you love to see in your creations?

When it comes to designing my men’s wear in particular, I’ve always got Tom Warren, (the male model) in mind, so he would be great. But it’s always got to be someone quintessentially British.

Where would you like to see your label in 5 years time?

I would love to take the label over seas and showcase at other fashion weeks. As the New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks are all back-to-back, it is impossible for some buyers to attend all. I’m actually showing in Paris as well this season which is great as it enables those who can’t come to London to hopefully get a chance to see the collection over there.

I’d also like to branch out more and create an accessories line, and a few companies have approached me to suggest collaborative projects with them, which is a possibility if I get more time.

Interview for The Fashion Scout